Cyclopia sp. (honeybush) is an African shrub known as a rich source of
polyphenols. The biological effects of fermented honeybush extracts were investigated. The influence of honeybush extracts on extracellular matrix (ECM)
enzymes responsible for the skin malfunction and aging process-
collagenase,
elastase,
tyrosinase and
hyaluronidase-was analysed. The research also included assessment of the in vitro photoprotection efficiency of honeybush extracts and their contribution to the wound healing process.
Antioxidant properties of the prepared extracts were evaluated, and quantification of the main compounds in the extracts was achieved. The research showed that the analysed extracts had a significant ability to inhibit
collagenase,
tyrosinase and
hyaluronidase and a weak influence on
elastase activity.
Tyrosinase was inhibited effectively by honeybush
acetone (IC50 26.18 ± 1.45 µg/mL),
ethanol (IC50 45.99 ± 0.76 µg/mL) and water (IC50 67.42 ± 1.75 µg/mL) extracts. Significant
hyaluronidase inhibition was observed for
ethanol,
acetone and water extracts (IC50 were 10.99 ± 1.56, 13.21 ± 0.39 and 14.62 ± 0.21µg/mL, respectively).
Collagenase activity was inhibited effectively by honeybush
acetone extract (IC50 42.5 ± 1.05 μg/mL). The wound healing properties of the honeybush extracts, estimated in vitro in human keratinocytes (HaCaTs), were indicated for water and
ethanol extracts. In vitro sun protection factor (SPF in vitro) showed medium photoprotection potential for all the honeybush extracts. The quantity of polyphenolic compounds was estimated with the use of high-performance liquid chromatography equipped with diode-array detection (HPLC-DAD), indicating the highest
mangiferin contents in
ethanol,
acetone and
n-butanol extracts, while in the water extract
hesperidin was the dominant compound. The
antioxidant properties of the honeybush extracts were estimated with FRAP (2,4,6-Tris(2-pyridyl)-s-triazine) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) tests, indicating their strong
antioxidant activity, similar to
ascorbic acid for the
acetone extract in both tests. The wound healing abilities, estimation of SPF in vitro and the direct influence on selected
enzymes (
elastase,
tyrosinase,
collagenase and
hyaluronidase) of the tested honeybush extracts were analysed for the first time, indicating a high potential of these well-known
herbal tea for antiaging, anti-
inflammation, regeneration and protection of the skin.